Apr 4

Journey to the East|March Review

This blog will transition from weekly to monthly updates, reflecting a shift from traversing countries within days (in Europe) to weeks. I invite you to read my observations in Türkiye, which have not been covered in other writings already published. I entered the country on March 3rd. Including some stops in Istanbul and Ankara, it took me until April 2nd to approach Mount Ararat. Several things caught my attention in particular.

这个博客将从每周更新转为每月更新，映射出我的旅程从在欧洲数日穿越国界到数周的节奏转变。我诚邀您阅读我在土耳其的见闻，这些内容是我之前发布的作品中未曾涉及的。自3月3日我踏入土耳其起，包括在伊斯坦布尔和安卡拉的逗留，直至4月2日我才接近阿拉拉特山。在这一过程中，有几点特别引起了我的兴趣。

1. Climate and Wildlife: Throughout most of March, the days remained cold and occasionally snowy. Yet, two types of animals were notably prevalent on the roads: black crows and stray dogs. Their presence went beyond mere existence; especially the dogs, which at times accompanied me through numerous villages, barking loudly and occasionally attempting to bite my bags if they detected food. Thankfully, I received plenty of advice from social media friends on how to deal with them. Over the weeks, initial fear dissipated, and I sometimes even managed to share some cookies with them.

1. 气候与野生动物: 在三月的大部分时间里，气温依旧寒冷，偶尔会下雪。但在道路上特别常见的是两种动物：黑色的乌鸦和流浪狗。它们的存在不仅仅是生存；尤其是流浪狗，它们有时会伴我穿越众多村落，高声吠叫，并在察觉到食物时偶尔尝试咬我的背包。幸好，我从社交媒体上的朋友那里获得了许多处理这些情况的建议。几周之后，我最初的恐惧逐渐消失，有时我甚至能与它们分享一些饼干。

2. Cultural Shifts as of bordertown Edirne: Upon crossing the border at Edirne, public life transformed dramatically, with much more activity on the streets, including spontaneous conversations and handshakes. A notable observation was the prevalent need for cash, demonstrated by the queues at ATM machines, often clustered in what I would describe as 'money islands.' Another significant aspect is the beautiful tea culture, which undoubtedly plays a major role in social cohesion.

2. 埃迪尔内边城的文化变迁： 一旦越过埃迪尔内的边界，公共生活便发生了根本性的变化，街头活动大幅增加，包括随处可见的闲聊和握手。特别显著的一点是对现金的强烈需求，这从ATM前长队的常态中可见一斑，这些ATM常聚集成我所谓的“货币岛”。另外，值得一提的是茶文化的美妙，它无疑在加强社会联系方面发挥了核心作用。

3. Istanbul’s Cultural Identity: We have already discussed Istanbul's role as a cultural hub and its centuries-old tradition of generating cultural value. Experiencing this crossroads was profound. The transition was marked by crossing the Bosporus by ferry, gradually leaving Europe and then quite literally bumping into Asia. I was fortunate to have the company of a new friend, Murat. When he attended my lecture I found out he is the president of the Turkish Cycling Association (TCA). My first 40 km in Asia were under the expert guidance of Murat, who showed me the best cycling paths, introduced me to new cycling facilities, and even filmed me in action. We also met Mr. Chen from Shenzhen, who had left his restaurant in Longhua to bike to Europe, encountering us as fellow long-distance cyclists. Later, Murat facilitated connections with TCA members in other cities, ensuring a warm welcome at municipal borders and helping me find accommodation with ease. A big thank you to Murat.

3. 伊斯坦布尔的文化特性： 伊斯坦布尔作为文化交汇点及其长久以来孕育文化价值的传统已是我们讨论过的话题。深入体验这一文化十字路口给我留下了深刻印象。这场转变以乘坐渡轮穿过博斯普鲁斯海峡作为标志，我从欧洲逐步过渡到亚洲，这种过渡几乎是字面意义上的。在这一过程中，我很幸运地得到了新朋友穆拉特的陪同。当他参加了我的演讲后，我得知他是土耳其自行车协会（TCA）的主席。在亚洲的前40公里骑行中，穆拉特不仅为我提供了专业的引导，还向我介绍了最佳骑行路线和新的骑行设施，并且为我骑行时拍摄视频。我们还邂逅了来自深圳的陈先生，他为了骑行到欧洲而离开了他在龙华的餐馆，与我们这些长途骑行者相遇。此外，穆拉特还帮助我与TCA在其他城市的成员建立联系，确保我在进入各市时受到热情接待，并帮助我轻松找到住宿。向穆拉特表示衷心的感谢。

4. Cycling Vision: As a cyclist, your vision is constantly in multifocal mode. You enjoy the landscape with a wide-angle vision, assessing potential dangers from all sides, and meticulously scanning the pavement to mitigate the risk of potholes and sharp objects. Together, your eyes fulfill their purpose: to process impressions and interpret meanings, bridging survival and euphoria as closely as possible.

4. 骑行视野： 作为一个骑行者，你的视野始终处于多焦点模式。你以广角视野欣赏风景，全方位评估潜在危险，并仔细扫描路面，以减少坑洼和尖锐物体的风险。你的双眼共同完成它们的使命：处理所见印象、解读含义，尽可能将生存与欣喜相连。

5. Historical Architecture vs. Cycling Pace: Maintaining a pace that allows me to eventually reach China, or any other country beyond Türkiye, means also foregoing numerous opportunities to admire the great architecture of a country as historically rich as this one. So, what can be visited, offers not only a glimpse into the factual reality on the ground but also the potential for rich historical extrapolations. Encountering an early Christian church transformed into a mosque opens up inquiries about what exactly defines a mosque and how to interpret the architecture of minaret additions beyond their direct functional use as a call to prayer. Discovering an old caravanserai from pre-Marco Polo times challenges the notion of Western modernity as the primary source of international explorations and exchange. Every standout building prompts free cultural associations, creating a journey within the journey. And even the less conspicuous buildings provoke curiosity about local customs, habits, and mentalities.

5. 历史建筑与骑行速度： 为了维持一个能够让我最终到达中国或土耳其之外的其他国家的速度，我不得不放弃许多欣赏这个历史悠久国家壮丽建筑的机会。因此，能够参观到的地方，不仅提供了对于当地真实情况的一窥，而且还开启了对深厚历史背景的丰富推敲。碰到一个由基督教教堂改造成的清真寺，便引发了对于清真寺定义的探讨，以及对宣礼塔附加建筑在其作为祈祷召唤之外用途的解读。探索一个比马可波罗时期还早的古老驿站，挑战了将西方现代性视为国际探险与交流唯一源泉的看法。每一座标志性建筑都引发了文化的自由联想，使得旅程中又蕴含了另一层旅程。即使是那些不那么显眼的建筑，也引起了对当地风俗、生活习惯和思维方式的好奇。

6. Local Elections in the Countryside: Traveling through the vast countryside of Türkiye, I observed the Turkish people fully engaged in the campaigns for local elections, culminating in what was described as a significant shift in Turkish politics. Speeches, billboards, and speaker cars dominated the street scenes. Despite the noted weak female civic representation, it’s clear the spirit of democracy is very much alive.

6. 土耳其乡村的地方选举： 在土耳其广袤的乡村地区旅行时，我目睹了土耳其民众积极参与地方选举活动的场景，这场选举被视为土耳其政治的一次显著转向。街头随处可见的演讲、广告牌和带扩音器的汽车定义了这次选举的视觉风貌。尽管女性在公民代表中的比例偏低，但民主精神的活跃度清晰可见。

7. Environmental Observations: The Anthropocene may be attributed not just to humans in general but first and foremost all to the wealthiest individuals, paralleling the exponential growth in the net worth of a select few. This connection becomes more apparent in the context of legal responsibility for environmental issues. However, the ubiquity of plastic pollution tells a different story, one of collective responsibility. Virtually every meter of roadside I passed was littered with pet bottles, jerry cans, garbage bags, and other indestructible items, highlighting the widespread issue of environmental neglect. Additionally, it will be an anthropological question of great interest, why Red Bull energy drinks emerge as a most recognizable symbol of roadside environmental decline.

7. 环境观察： 人类世的形成并非仅仅与广泛的人类活动相关，而是尤其与那些最富有者的行为紧密相连，这反映了少数人财富的指数级增长。这种联系在环境责任的法律讨论中变得更加显著。尽管如此，塑料污染的泛滥却讲述了一个集体责任的故事。沿途几乎每一米的路边都被塑料瓶、油桶、垃圾袋以及其他难以降解的物品所覆盖，凸显了环境忽略的广泛问题。另一个引人深思的问题是，为何红牛能量饮料成为路旁环境恶化最显著的标志，这是一个引人深思的人类学议题。

8. Eastern Türkiye Landscape

Approaching the eastern part of Türkiye, the landscape became increasingly white with snow. Beyond the city of Sivas, it was a continuous ascent each day, culminating in stays on a highland plateau at around 1500 meters altitude. Navigating this terrain required careful examination of elevation profiles for each stage, recognizing my limits, and aiming for at least one mountain pass over 2000 meters daily. This became a routine achievement in the last week.

8. 土耳其东部风光： 当我逐渐接近土耳其的东部，周围的景观逐步变为雪白一片。越过锡瓦斯市之后，便开始了每天的持续攀升，最终在海拔约1500米的高原上进行了短暂的停留。导航这一地形需要我仔细研究每个路段的海拔变化，了解自己的极限，并设定每天至少通过一个2000米高的山口的目标。在旅程的最后一周，这成了我每日的常规成就。

9. Mount Ararat: Finally, I reached the dual peaks of Mount Ararat, enshrouded in a majestic white cloak. Their shape not only evoked the story of Noah's Ark but seemed to embody the Ark itself. More about this speculation can be found in a separate blog post.

9. 阿拉拉特山： 终于，我抵达了阿拉拉特山的双顶，它们披着雄伟的白雪斗篷。这些山峰的轮廓不仅让人联想到诺亚方舟的传说，它们的形状似乎直接承载着方舟的形象。有关这一假设的更多讨论，可在我另一篇博客文章中查看。